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Slouppi • View topic - Cro Magnon

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Wed Sep 19, 2018 13:44

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 Post subject: Cro Magnon
PostPosted: Sat Aug 07, 2004 07:22 
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Joined: Wed Aug 21, 2002 02:00
Posts: 26
Location: 6a
Concratulations Teemu! Great that ohlava gets a new hard trad route. Well done!!! :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 07, 2004 10:28 
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Joined: Thu May 30, 2002 02:00
Posts: 72
We saw Teemu climbing the route. Very impressive. Great line, includes 5 meters deep bouldering pad.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 07, 2004 23:06 
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Joined: Fri Apr 26, 2002 02:00
Posts: 276
Yes, well done Teemu!!

Is it that old aidline next to Henkka's Los Capitanos or something else?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2004 11:48 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 5
Location: Vantaa (jaylpeä!?)
The line starts from the left side of the arete (the same side 'viimeinen dinosaurus' is) from a big crack with big loose looking chockstones. It goes around on the other side and returns at about five meters for the crux moves. After the crux there is about five meters of moderate climbing untill the first gear placement where the route shares one or to moves with Martins route. The route goes on the right side of the arete for the last 6 to 7 meters for some exelent slab climbing (if you don´t feel up to it you can escape for some easier terrain on the right).

Teemu T

P.S. Did it again on saturday and this time around we got some pics


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 08, 2004 14:59 
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Joined: Sun Mar 24, 2002 02:00
Posts: 47
Location: kuusankoski
varmasti hieno linja, jatka samaan malliin! :o koskas päästää kuvii ihailemaan? mitenkäs ois E-greidi, E5 vai jotaa ihan muuta? :wink:

sami


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2004 10:49 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
ska wrote:
varmasti hieno linja, jatka samaan malliin! :o koskas päästää kuvii ihailemaan? mitenkäs ois E-greidi, E5 vai jotaa ihan muuta? :wink:

sami


E6 I reckon. Unless if course it counts as a DWS. :wink:

Well done, the photo looks excellent.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 10, 2004 08:06 
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Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2001 02:00
Posts: 129
Location: Porvoo
The picture of Teemu that Lauri W has taken is quite impressive. Those kind of climbing photos with a yellow-colored cliff and a black-matte lake in the background are quite unique.

Very seldom you see similar pics in the climbing magazines, yet those kinf of photos are relatively easy to get in Olhava, on the "laatta". With the exception of course that most of the "laatta" routes are several grades easier ... :roll:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2004 14:37 
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Joined: Wed Apr 24, 2002 02:00
Posts: 96
Hey Toby!

I met a nice fellow called Daniel in Chamonix this summer.
He knew you someway and asked me to say hello!
He wasn´t really sure would you remember him. He´s Rachels friend from Gum Club, whatever it means (at least that´s what I wrote down after several pints of beer). I think this guy´s from Scotland.

I got a free beer cause I just knew your name and profession, so thanks!

What comes to Cromagno: Brilliant line indeed! It´s strange that it was still unclimbed. Nice effort Teemu!!!!

-Joonas S.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2004 09:19 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
Joonas - i know exactly who you mean. This guy: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=8260 Small world isn't it? I'm glad you got a beer out it! :lol:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2004 13:23 
Joonas wrote:
What comes to Cromagno: Brilliant line indeed! It´s strange that it was still unclimbed. Nice effort Teemu!!!!

With bolts it might be fairly doable but without them it looks like a rather committing line. Or that was the impression I got while browsing the arete from a boat yesterday.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2004 18:59 
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Joined: Wed Apr 24, 2002 02:00
Posts: 96
Committing line for sure, but still the line is pretty obvious.

Well, I didn´t really notice this "obvious line" myself either. Just after when Teemu told me about his project. Now it´s climbed and it´s always there for motivated swim... i mean climbers :D .


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 15, 2004 16:02 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 5
Location: Vantaa (jaylpeä!?)
"Yeah righ. Like there is any trad lines left in Olhava."

Sorry for that.. Sampsa ..but I had to leave the route unclimbed for the hollidays and could not let annother climber know about the line. Specially because Tomi was listening also. Not that I don't trust you two but as long as Tomi is climbing with that "oops I did it again" style I felt more safe like this.


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