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Slouppi • View topic - Supermartikainen poll

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Mon Sep 24, 2018 21:31

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What should we do we the broken hold on Supermartikainen?
Poll ended at Sun Sep 19, 2004 20:14
Glue it back in place 30%  30%  [ 10 ]
Nothing, the problem was too easy anyway 12%  12%  [ 4 ]
Nothing, it's unethical to glue 57%  57%  [ 19 ]
Total votes : 33
Author Message
 Post subject: Supermartikainen poll
PostPosted: Sun Sep 05, 2004 20:14 
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Joined: Sun Dec 23, 2001 02:00
Posts: 13
Location: Mariehamn
Hi, unfortunately the starting foothold for the right foot on Supermartikainen broke today while I was trying it. The problem is now even harder because there are no more positive foothold, just a really small edge/smear a bit to the left of the broken hold. I have the broken hold at my possession. The problem is most likely still climbable for the strong boys. The reason I post this is because, for those who don't know, the problem is a true classic and one of the best problems in Åland and it would be sad if it's ruined. What do you guys and girls usually do in a situation like this?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2004 13:59 
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Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2001 02:00
Posts: 264
i don't think it's worth gluing a foothold back. it would be a different case if the broken hold made it impossible. all i want point out without being total ass, which i obviously am, that if every broken hold is glued in time it will be a mess. after all, holds break quite often.

and to keep it real, i can't believe it that by now almost half of the folks have voted for gluing. get real.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2004 17:19 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
olli wrote:
i don't think it's worth gluing a foothold back.


Agreed. I can't imagine there is any glue around that would actually work for any length of time either. Hold fall off routes and problems. Its called erosion (with a bit help from climbers). Some routes get easier as result, others harder. It all works out in a big-wheel-of-life-karmic kinda way.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 17, 2004 10:47 
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Joined: Sun Dec 23, 2001 02:00
Posts: 13
Location: Mariehamn
Seems like the broken foothold will stay off, that sounds fair and suits my lazy self.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 04, 2004 13:26 
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Joined: Mon Oct 20, 2003 02:00
Posts: 6
this saturday supermartikainen was reclimbed in it's new state by Fredrik Andesson and myself. The lack of foothold does not seem to change the grade.
/e


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 08, 2005 13:31 
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Joined: Sun May 08, 2005 13:23
Posts: 2
I would just like to know whether the problem is climbed by A) a proper sitstart or, as I am told is suggested by the film "Å", B) a low start? I was trying to get my arms around and get a foot up to do the sitstart but couldn´t get the knack of it.

And while I am on the subject: what is the name of the problem that starts sittning in the right "corner" of the first "cave" (the one with the sign with the little story) in Djupviken?

(Answers could be sent to my e-mail :)

johnifontan@hotmail.com


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2005 21:21 
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Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2001 02:00
Posts: 333
Location: nybacka - uusmäki
it's a proper crouching start.

'high tide' might be the name of the problem.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2005 14:12 
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Joined: Sun May 08, 2005 13:23
Posts: 2
samppa wrote:
it's a proper crouching start.


Does that mean that you´re allowed to put on one foot on the step, hang in both arms and then do the problem - or are you being ironic?

Quote:
'high tide' might be the name of the problem


Grade suggestion?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2005 18:52 
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Joined: Mon Jul 11, 2005 18:41
Posts: 4
Location: Stockholm
Dont glue it on it fine as it is. I done it with both the old foot hold and the new and its still te same grade i think 7c. It is one of the best problems on Åland.


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