On 2003-05-26 20:58, Jody wrote:
Indiana Jones & Jokisen eväät, are roughly the same technically when done on a top rope but grades should be based on leading difficulty.
Lots of climbers who have started on climbing wall don't seem to think that there is much difference between top roping and leading! But personal-axe-grinding apart I think it is best to think of Finn grades a bit like US grades - at least at the level we are discussing. 5.9s can be horrendous if its a 40 metre crack with every move 5.9 or it could be one little 5.9 move next to a bolt. You have to just make an educated guess from what you can see from the ground.
Can't remember which is which at Nuuksio as I don't like the crag much but compare 'Rock Vandal' at Rollarit (5) with 'Help' (5) and 'Layback Home' (5) both Kvarnby. Rock Vandal is sustained but no real crux and well protected the whole way = HVS 5a, Help is the climbing equivalent of bare knuckle fighting, basically a complete struggle but short and safe = HVS 5b, Layback Home is badly protected with a nasty landing until you get onto the flake and thats the crux done so = E1 5a. These are my guesses. Lots and lots of 5 might make E1 5b though - do Routsalaisten Reitti at Olhava - 50 mtrs of pure climbing brilliance but it will feel like you've done an E1 by the time you finish even if the moves are probably just Eng. 5a!
If you are from Sheff you've probably done battle with Chequer Crack at Froggart - thats meant to be HVS but would probably get about Finn 7+ !