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Slouppi • View topic - Climbing in Norway in july

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Wed Sep 19, 2018 07:29

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 Post subject: Climbing in Norway in july
PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2007 08:20 
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Joined: Tue Jul 19, 2005 09:47
Posts: 9
Location: Helsinki
Hi everyone,

We are planning to go climbing to northern Norway on 1-10th of july this summer. We'll go there from Helsinki by car and can take 1-2 passenges with us.
We are planning to visit following places:

1. Kvaloya near Tromso city: Blamann, Hollenderan rocks
http://www.blixt.no/KvaloyaArchives/bla ... utes.shtml
http://www.blixt.no/KvaloyaArchives/hol ... utes.shtml

2. Lofoten islands: Svolvaergeita, Presten, Gandalfveggen rocks
http://www.climbandmore.com/climbing,14 ... gions.html
http://www.matthewbuckle.net/climb/gall ... ten%20copy

3. Stetind mountain near Narvik city
http://www.stetind.nu/html/klatring.html
http://www.rockfax.com/publications/min ... .php?id=49

There are some places in Kvaloya with sport routes, the rest will be trad climbing.

Feel free to contact me,
v.gokkoev@luukku.com


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 Post subject: Re: Climbing in Norway in july
PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2007 14:49 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
slava wrote:
There are some places in Kvaloya with sport routes, the rest will be trad climbing.


To drive all the way to Kvaloya and then go sport climbing would be a little mad! The "sports" cliffs (they have trad routes as well) are perfectly good, and an option if the weather is bad in the hills, but the Hollenderan is so amazing - world class.

The walk-in from the east is very, very hard work - although beautiful. Three hours of rough, hard walking if you are moving fast. The route from the NW is supposedly less hellish. Don't go just for a day, as it is a bit epic - stay in the hut!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2007 15:51 
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Joined: Sun May 11, 2003 02:00
Posts: 335
Location: Hki/Tku
You are planning to visit all three places in ten days? Including travel days? Try to get at least two weeks. It is a long drive.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2007 20:20 
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Joined: Tue Mar 23, 2004 23:18
Posts: 18
And it`s nearly a days drive from kvaloya to svolvaer.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 14:27 
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Joined: Fri Apr 26, 2002 02:00
Posts: 276
Yes, certainly sounds like a bit mad idea to me. Having visited all of the locations I'd recommend to pick just one, and count on bad weather too.

Climbing Blåmannen takes you at least 3-4 days including gear carrying and descending. Climbing at Baugen 2 days minimum up on the hill plus strenuous walking there and back etc.

If weather sucks in selected destinations, you can then possible found different weather in some other spot.

Plus huge distances betwenn spots as said earlier...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 15:52 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
MRoutsi wrote:
Climbing at Baugen 2 days minimum up on the hill


It doesn't - you can do a route on Baugen in a day from the road, but like I said in the post above, it will be a long day.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2007 09:00 
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Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 02:00
Posts: 368
Norwegian (now californian, but originally swedish dude Mr. Blixt) climbed blåmannen and halvmånerisset in 12 hours if I remember right. Confusing but true. :D

Mikko


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2007 12:55 
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Joined: Sun May 11, 2003 02:00
Posts: 335
Location: Hki/Tku
Presten Westpillar at Lofoten islands has been climbed under 60 minutes. But most mortals climb it about ten hours.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2007 14:31 
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Joined: Fri Apr 26, 2002 02:00
Posts: 276
Of course everything is possible, Blåmannen in a day or Baugen in a day. But normally those who do it are locals, who can pick the right weather. And are very, very fast climbers too.

And as far as Baugen, some people have they rack in the hut so walking up is not that bad. For us foreigners it can be smart to go up with food for 2-3 days and with good luck do 1-2 routes, even 3.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2007 21:05 
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Joined: Tue Jul 19, 2005 09:47
Posts: 9
Location: Helsinki
The original idea of the post was to find partners to go to Norway. Now it seems to be a discussion about what is possible :wink:
Anyway, thank you for advices. It is better to have many options than few.


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