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Slouppi • View topic - Costa Blanca - Multipitch - Villa Pico

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Thu Sep 20, 2018 03:34

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 Post subject: Costa Blanca - Multipitch - Villa Pico
PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2005 20:13 
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Joined: Wed Jan 26, 2005 13:07
Posts: 15
Costa Blanca - Multipitch - Villa Pico

Herättääkö jokin yllä olevista ajatuksia, mielipiteitä?

Ollaan menossa toukokuussa ja tietenkin kiinnostaa kuulla kaikenlaisia ajatuksia ja kokemuksia.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 31, 2005 01:09 
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Joined: Wed Apr 24, 2002 02:00
Posts: 48
Location: Helsinki
Villa Pico ei sano mitään, mutta jonkun verran olen kolunnut Costa Blancan mestoja. Enemmän tosin olen täällä pohjoisemmassa kiivennyt.

Itselleni on ollut paljon hyötyä opaskirjasta nimeltä:
112 Propuestas de escalada en la comunidad valenciana.
Kirjaan on listattu hienoja reittejä 22:sta eri paikasta.

Monissa paikoissa, kuten Peñon de Fachissa ja Sellassa osa reiteistä on pahasti kiillottuneita.

Jos sikapitkät tradilinjat kiinnostavat, niin Puig Campana kannattaa käydä tsekkaamassa. Pisin linja taitaa olla n. 900m.

Peñon de fach on kiipeämisen arvoinen. Hieno fiilis kiivetä, kun välimeri välkkyy sinisenä alapuolella. Via costa Blanca on kokonaan pultattu, mutta aika vaikea, Diedro UBSA on mukavan helppo tradireitti. Molemmat n.9 pitchia. Ja onhan siellä tietty miljoona muutakin reittiä.

Rojuista sen verran, että pari kiilasettiä ja läjä frendejä, niin hyvin pärjää missä vaan. Pultteja ja pitoneita ja virityksiä riittää tradireiteilläkin. Pultit on suomalaisen standardeilla kuumottavia monissa paikoissa.

Hienoja seiniä on niin älyttömästi näillä seuduilla, harmittaa kun en ole ehtinyt enempää koluta puolen vuoden aikana. :(


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2005 12:53 
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Joined: Wed Jan 26, 2005 13:07
Posts: 15
Kiitos Tommi hyvistä vinkeistä.

Palasimme eilen kahden viikon matkalta Costa Blancalta. Täytyy sanoa että oli ehkä kaikkien aikojen paras reissu.

Kiivettiin Peñon de Fachissa ja Puig Campanalla yhdet pitkät helpohkot reitit. Vähän oli haasteita löytää polku alas Puigilta mutta muuten kokemus oli täysin sanoinkuvaamaton. Kun on kiivennyt seitsemän tuntia ja saavuttaa korkeimman kohdan (n.900m merenpinnan yläpuolella) niin tietää miksi on jaksanut harjoitella sisällä koko talven.

Vaikka tulen varmasti kiipeämään vielä monissa maissa niin Espanjan Costa Blanca tulee olemaan vielä monen monta kertaa se paikka missä täytyy käydä melkein joka vuosi. Viimeksi asuttiin Orange Housessa ja täytyy mainostaa että Villa Pico voittaa 6-0 lähes kaikilla osa-alueilla. Siellä ei asu yhtä paljon kiipeilyhenkistä porukkaa, mutta seinänaapuri on kiipeilylegenda Terry Gifford :P

http://www.festivalofmountaineeringlite ... istory.htm

www.villapico.com


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