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Slouppi • View topic - Grades

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Mon Sep 23, 2019 02:55

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PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2004 13:30 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
After disasterously starting this thread, I had given up on it... all I wanted was some idea for some average lower grade boulder problems, or a formula that relates boulder problems to route grades.

i.e. the lovely Siderhouse Rulez at Vessölandet (boulder grade 5+) felt to me very much like the doing the crux of Zombbari at Jaanankallio (route grade 5+). I have been told that Finnish boulder grades were a full number below route grades, so by that system I would have thought Siderhouse should be boulder 4+. Does anyone disagree or agree?

That's it.

Nothing more.

As far as I'm aware I didn't insult anyones mother, religion, or pet rabbit. I wasn't really interested in peoples' views on the concept of grading overall, just on what would be a good example of 4+ (or 5+ or 5- etc) boulder problem so I had some baseline to compare from.

Nevermind. It isn't very important.

(at this point Toby - having already pulled all his hair out - collapses crying into his keyboard, swearing never to ask a grade question again...)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2004 13:37 
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Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2002 02:00
Posts: 102
Location: Helsinki
toby, dude, dry your tears and glue the hair back on!

this thread is the best one in this forum since the famous "henkka grading thread" a few years back. no doubt.

the whole idea about a forum of this type is to vent opinions, preferably in a markedly holier-than-thou manner!

keep up the good work!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2004 13:46 
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Toby wrote:
After disasterously starting this thread


Lets not over react, maybe its my upbringing but this discussion was neither disasterous nor insulting (a tad fruitless maybe).

Toby wrote:
i.e. the lovely Siderhouse Rulez at Vessölandet (boulder grade 5+) felt to me very much like the doing the crux of Zombbari at Jaanankallio (route grade 5+). I have been told that Finnish boulder grades were a full number below route grades, so by that system I would have thought Siderhouse should be boulder 4+. Does anyone disagree or agree?


Maybe 5+ is a bit tough, I reckon 5 (i.e. roughly V1/B2). Anybody else done it?


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PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2004 14:01 
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Location: Vantaa
Jody wrote:
Maybe 5+ is a bit tough, I reckon 5 (i.e. roughly V1/B2). Anybody else done it?


As a comparison I gave "The Farm" on Painted Slab four or five goes and didn't make it to the top - and that is given a 5... although with no spotter I was a wee bit worried on that one about falling down the hole below it so perhaps weren't giving it all my 'umppfff'.


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PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2004 15:57 
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Joined: Sat Dec 22, 2001 02:00
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Location: Helsinki / Vaasa
I finland we call "ummppff" "p****le!". It works better too...

_________________
Boulder loves you.


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PostPosted: Fri May 14, 2004 11:06 
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Toby wrote:
As a comparison I gave "The Farm" on Painted Slab four or five goes and didn't make it to the top - and that is given a 5...


I cannot comment on this one because I have not done it. If I remember rightly I think Erik was the only one of the developers to have a go at this one and he flash it. At the time he was consistently flashing 5/5+'s and this problem's grade was around there. I think the best thing would be for Erik, Anders and me to go back to Vessölandet and try these problems again with these concerns in mind and see if their grades need altering. I think the euphoria of setting new problems may have had an influence on our judgement. I have to say that I love the fact that Finland has so many untouched problems to offer. For me setting new problems is the greatest, something that is very hard to do in Britain unless youre in the top group of climbers.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 14, 2004 11:57 
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Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2002 02:00
Posts: 86
Location: Grani
Quote:
I think the best thing would be for Erik, Anders and me to go back to Vessölandet and try these problems again with these concerns in mind and see if their grades need altering.


Yep, thats probably a good idea, although i dont think any radical changes on our routes will occur, perhaps add or subtract a + or - on some problems.
/e


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 14, 2004 12:07 
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Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2001 02:00
Posts: 264
you can't make it because there's no consensus..


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 14, 2004 14:48 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
samppa wrote:
routsi: "A hobby free of middle east war or Iraq-situation and such" maybe you've seen these already:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/south_asia/3698091.stm
http://www.buffalonews.com/editorial/20 ... 037001.asp
the swiss guy is supposed to be elie chevieux.


A happy a rumour doing the round on UKclimbing is that it wasn't Chevieux and he has phoned his parents back in Europe. Hope this is true, but of course is it still very sad for the families of whoever it is who has been killed.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 19, 2004 12:33 
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Joined: Wed May 19, 2004 12:12
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Location: global
Toby wrote:
all I wanted was some idea for some average lower grade boulder problems, or a formula that relates boulder problems to route grades.


If you can flash it: VB or V0+ tops

If you can do it after a few tries: V1

If you can do it after many tries, move-by-move beta from a French coach and a minor bout of flatulence: V2 or English 5c

If you can't do it: >V2

Hope that helps.

:wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 19, 2004 13:55 
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Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
fatt puntta wrote:
If you can do it after many tries, move-by-move beta from a French coach and a minor bout of flatulence: V2 or English 5c


I blame the cook from the night before personally, but I'm not too proud to accept all additional forms of upward propulsion beyond minimal amounts strength and talent that I have.


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